This unit can be used for showers from 32”x33” up to 64”圆4” and includes all components in two boxes (Drain not included).Ĭomponents in Box 1 include: Patent Pending composite base pieces and shim pieces to accommodate from 32”×32” base to 64”×64” base, with shims that will off-set the drain up to 4½” from the wall and center the drain within the width opening.Ĭomponents in Box 2 include: (1) 3’×44’ roll of AquaSeal™ waterproofing sheet membrane, (1) 6’×9’ section of AquaSeal™ waterproofing for the base of the shower (to allow for a one-piece pan with no seams), (1) 72” Solid Curb, (4) Thin-Line Inside Corners, (4) Thin-Line Outside Corners, (1) Thin-Line Mixing Valve Collar, (1) Thin-Line Pipe Collar, and (1) tube of NobleSealant 250. This unit can be used for showers from 30”×30” up to 32”×60” tub replacement and includes all components in a single box (Drain not included).Ĭomponents include: Patent Pending composite base pieces and shim pieces to accommodate a 32×60 tub replacement, with shims that will offset the drain up to 4½” from the wall and center the drain within the width opening, (1) 3’×44’ roll of AquaSeal™ waterproofing sheet membrane, (2) 30” Solid Curbs, (4) Thin-Line™ Inside Corners, (4) Thin-Line Outside Corners, (1) Thin-Line Mixing Valve Collar, (1) Thin-Line Pipe Collar, and (1) tube of NobleSealant 250. ProBase II is offered in two configurations: 32圆0 Tub Replacement Kit It installs quickly and easily with modified thin-set to provide the code-required slope to drain in conjunction with Noble Company’s Freestyle Linear Drain™.
Sand lightly with fine grit sandpaper if needed before installing.ProBase ® II provides a complete solution for a linear drain installation. If the length is too long, measure again and shave off additional length on one side to make it work. While both are cut to a 45-degree angle, one should overlap the other, thereby making the joint nearly invisible. Step 6: Check Joint and Adjust if NecessaryĬheck your work by holding the 2 pieces together. Again, align the blade with the mark on the bottom of the second piece. Reset the miter blade to 45 degrees in the opposite direction. To make it work, the bottom edge will still be closest to the blade, but it will be set in the jig or held against the fence to the right of the blade. Set the second piece of molding in the jig.
Activate the saw and bring it down smoothly to make the cut. Remember, you marked the bottom of the molding, so it's facing up in the jig or against the fence. Bring the saw blade down (without activating saw) to make sure it aligns with the mark. Holding the first section to the left of the miter blade, adjust the blade so it's set at 45 degrees in the direction of your left. If you have no jig, you can hold the molding in the same position with your hand while you cut, but again make sure the edges are flush. The jig will hold the piece in place with both the top and bottom edges flush against the jig in their respective locations. The top edge of the molding should be on the cutting table. If using a power miter saw and jig, set the first piece in the jig with the bottom edge against the fence.
Offset the cuts so the scarf joint doesn't happen directly in the middle of the wall. To give an example: if the length of the wall is 15 feet and you have two 10-foot pieces of trim, measure and mark 8 feet along the bottom edge of one and 7 feet along the bottom edge of the other. On the bottom edge of the crown molding, that is, where it comes into contact with the wall, measure and mark where you'll make the cuts. When creating a scarf joint between 2 lengths of crown molding, determine the total distance the trim must span. Step 1: Take Measurements to Determine Cutting Points
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